The client came in with very oily skin, visible congestion, closed comedones, blackheads, post-breakout marks, and pronounced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on a background of regular breakouts.
Two sessions — and post-acne pigmentation looked noticeably less pronounced, while the skin appeared more even in tone and less oily
HydroDiamond + Cold Plasma:
A Protocol for Oily Skin with Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
A Protocol for Oily Skin with Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Mariangel Hospedales built the protocol around the client's skin condition and goals, combining several technologies in a purposeful sequence.
Mariangel builds protocols based on skin analysis: what the skin shows, what the client wants, and which sequence of steps will provide the most balanced visible result
Meet Mariangel
Hospedales
Hospedales
Esthetician
This protocol was performed by Mariangel Hospedales, an esthetician with more than 8 years of experience who specializes in skin care for acne-prone skin, melasma, and hyperpigmentation
Professional note:
this case illustrates one possible approach to building a protocol. The sequence of steps, treatment parameters, and home care are selected individually based on the skin's condition, the client's goals, and their response to treatment.
this case illustrates one possible approach to building a protocol. The sequence of steps, treatment parameters, and home care are selected individually based on the skin's condition, the client's goals, and their response to treatment.
Client: male, Fitzpatrick IV
Main concern: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on a background of regular breakouts
Visible signs: pronounced oily shine, congestion, closed comedones, blackheads, post-breakout marks, uneven texture
Course: 2 sessions
Protocol goal: reduce oily shine, improve the look of congestion, even out texture, and reduce the visibility of dark spots
Main concern: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on a background of regular breakouts
Visible signs: pronounced oily shine, congestion, closed comedones, blackheads, post-breakout marks, uneven texture
Course: 2 sessions
Protocol goal: reduce oily shine, improve the look of congestion, even out texture, and reduce the visibility of dark spots
The client came in asking for radiance and freshness. Behind that request were several connected factors Valentina accounted for when building the protocol:
Skin Condition & Protocol Goals
What the Skin Was Showing
An uneven stratum corneum
Key insight:
when uneven tone is combined with active congestion, working on dark spots alone is not enough. The treatment plan has to account for sebum, surface buildup, texture, and existing post-breakout marks all at once.
Surface buildup of corneocytes made the texture rougher, so the skin looked duller and pores and irregularities appeared more pronounced.
Post-acne surface irregularities
Localized changes in surface relief further disrupted light reflection, making the skin's surface look less smooth and uniform.
Excess sebum and congestion
Sebum combined with dead surface cells was accumulating in the pores, making them look more noticeable and supporting a tendency toward recurring breakouts.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
In Fitzpatrick IV skin, inflammation can activate melanogenesis, so post-inflammatory pigmented marks often look more pronounced and last longer.
How Each Step Built the Result
Mariangel structured the first session in the following sequence:
Protocol Logic:
What was done: the face was cleansed with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser.
Why: to remove surface sebum and impurities and prepare the skin for the next exfoliation step.
What happens at the surface: cleansing removes excess surface lipids and product residue, creating a more evenly prepared surface for the next step.
Why: to remove surface sebum and impurities and prepare the skin for the next exfoliation step.
What happens at the surface: cleansing removes excess surface lipids and product residue, creating a more evenly prepared surface for the next step.
Step 1. Cleansing
Step 8. Finishing Care
What was done: Dermachic Azeloglycine Serum and Face Reality Daily SPF 30 Plus.
Why: to complete the protocol with tone support and daily photoprotection.
What happens: azeloglycine is used in formulas to support a more even-looking, balanced tone, and daily SPF is especially important in protocols for uneven tone, since UV exposure can sustain the visibility of hyperpigmentation.
Why: to complete the protocol with tone support and daily photoprotection.
What happens: azeloglycine is used in formulas to support a more even-looking, balanced tone, and daily SPF is especially important in protocols for uneven tone, since UV exposure can sustain the visibility of hyperpigmentation.
Step 7. LED Support
What was done: 10 minutes of blue LED, followed by 5 minutes of red LED.
Why: to complete the active block with light-based support for breakout-prone skin.
What happens: blue LED was used as a support step for skin prone to breakouts, and red LED as a finishing step to support a calmer, more even look after the more intensive part of the protocol.
Why: to complete the active block with light-based support for breakout-prone skin.
What happens: blue LED was used as a support step for skin prone to breakouts, and red LED as a finishing step to support a calmer, more even look after the more intensive part of the protocol.
Step 6. Cold Plasma Technology
What was done: a Cold Plasma pass across the entire face.
Why: to support a calm, balanced look of the skin after the active steps.
What happens in the skin: the plasma field forms above the skin's surface — with no contact heat or ablation. After the active steps, the skin looks calmer and more comfortable, and the surface appears cleaner and prepared for the finishing steps.
Why: to support a calm, balanced look of the skin after the active steps.
What happens in the skin: the plasma field forms above the skin's surface — with no contact heat or ablation. After the active steps, the skin looks calmer and more comfortable, and the surface appears cleaner and prepared for the finishing steps.
Step 5. Tone-Focused Peel
What was done: Mr. Lulu Succinic–Azelaic Powder Peel was applied. After the exposure time, the formula was neutralized with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser.
Why: to address visible post-inflammatory discoloration and uneven tone.
What happens: Mr. Lulu Succinic–Azelaic Powder Peel is designed to support a more even-looking tone and reduce the visibility of dark spots. The previous steps ensured a clean, evenly prepared surface before the active formula was applied.
Why: to address visible post-inflammatory discoloration and uneven tone.
What happens: Mr. Lulu Succinic–Azelaic Powder Peel is designed to support a more even-looking tone and reduce the visibility of dark spots. The previous steps ensured a clean, evenly prepared surface before the active formula was applied.
Step 4. HydroDiamond® Treatment
What was done: a treatment pass with HydroDiamond® technology across the entire face.
Why: to continue surface refinement after the peel and extraction and prepare the skin for the tone-focused step.
What happens: the diamond tip gently resurfaces the stratum corneum while the vacuum simultaneously helps remove loosened corneocytes, excess sebum, and debris. This creates a smoother, cleaner surface before the next step.
Why: to continue surface refinement after the peel and extraction and prepare the skin for the tone-focused step.
What happens: the diamond tip gently resurfaces the stratum corneum while the vacuum simultaneously helps remove loosened corneocytes, excess sebum, and debris. This creates a smoother, cleaner surface before the next step.
Step 3. Extraction
What was done: localized manual removal of comedones.
Why: to clear the most visible congested areas after the preceding exfoliative preparation.
What happens: the previous peel helped soften surface buildup, so extraction could be performed with more control and less mechanical stress on the skin.
Why: to clear the most visible congested areas after the preceding exfoliative preparation.
What happens: the previous peel helped soften surface buildup, so extraction could be performed with more control and less mechanical stress on the skin.
Step 2. Chemical Exfoliation
What was done: Mr. Lulu Salicylic Resurfacing Oil was applied for 7 minutes total, including 6 minutes of manual massage, with pressure adapted to the client's sensitivity.
Why: to support exfoliation and prepare the congested areas for extraction.
What happens: salicylic acid interacts well with the skin's lipid environment. It supports the exfoliation of surface corneocytes and helps soften keratin and sebum buildup before extraction.
Why: to support exfoliation and prepare the congested areas for extraction.
What happens: salicylic acid interacts well with the skin's lipid environment. It supports the exfoliation of surface corneocytes and helps soften keratin and sebum buildup before extraction.
From day 5:
Home Care Between Sessions
The Client's Experience During the Treatment
Home care supported the results of the in-office protocol between sessions and complemented the work on uneven tone and the skin's overall condition.
Days 1–4 — recovery phase: washing with water, recovery cream, and sunscreen twice a day
Visible Result After 2 Sessions
- post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation became noticeably less pronounced
- the skin appears significantly less oily
- closed comedones and blackheads are less noticeabl
- the texture looks more even
- post-breakout marks appear visually softened
Protocol Synergy
The client reported being pleased with the first changes.
The result came from the sequence.
First, the surface was cleansed and prepared. Then extraction and HydroDiamond® helped reduce visible congestion and make the texture more even. After that, the tone-focused peel worked on an already prepared surface.
Cold Plasma and LED completed the active block without additional mechanical stress.
It was this sequence that allowed a single protocol to address several visible concerns at once: oiliness, congestion, uneven texture, and post-inflammatory discoloration.
First, the surface was cleansed and prepared. Then extraction and HydroDiamond® helped reduce visible congestion and make the texture more even. After that, the tone-focused peel worked on an already prepared surface.
Cold Plasma and LED completed the active block without additional mechanical stress.
It was this sequence that allowed a single protocol to address several visible concerns at once: oiliness, congestion, uneven texture, and post-inflammatory discoloration.
A retinoic peel by Mesoestetic was performed for 5 minutes, then removed with water. The home care routine remained unchanged.
Session 2:
The Next Stage of Working on Texture and Tone
The Next Stage of Working on Texture and Tone
Spa Menu Positioning
Zemits Technologies in This Protocol
